2009 Domaine Arlaud Bourgogne "Roncevie"

I picked up a bottle of the Domaine Arlaud Bourgogne "Roncevie" at the Casa Sena wine shop in Santa Fe the other day. (Warm thanks to PJ there for the recommendation.) Tried it last night with dinner. Very fresh and pure-tasting Pinot Noir. Light to medium-bodied, but reasonably intense with what seems to me a very Burgundian makeup---fine but somewhat mouth-coating tannins, a slight bit of smokiness or caramel (from oak, probably) overlaying bright fruit, primarily strawberry or perhaps cherry-like flavors. Reasonably velvety and well-integrated, and getting a bit more intense over the course of the meal. Not extraordinarily complex, but delicious. As I recall this wasn't inexpensive (Burgundy, unfortunately, never is), but pretty impressive for the price. It has the rare and pleasing taste of a natural, minimally messed with, clean and alive wine. A find I'm very happy with. I might rate it 8.5 or 9 on a 10 point scale, but it's basically a perfect example of what it is---a delicious, not overweening red Bourgogne. It went very well with a dinner of Venetian style smothered cabbage (finely shredded and slow cooked with sauteed onion, garlic, and a little red wine vinegar) and a pasta sauced with collard and mustard greens, white beans, and tomatoes.

A look at the importer's (North Berkeley Wine's) website reveals some information about Domaine Arlaud, which is based in the great Côtes-de-Nuits wine town of Morey St.-Denis, and about the 2008 vintage of this wine. According to this, Roncevie is surrounded by vineyards designated Gevrey-Chambertin, which helps explain its quality.

Jaffurs 2010 Syrah

Jaffurs is a Santa Barbara, California area winery that makes wines from Rhône varietal grapes. Everything I've ever tried of theirs has been excellent. The 2010 Syrah is truly outstanding, and based on a half-bottle, drinking very well now. It seemed more open, less tannic, much more hedonistic than other Jaffurs Syrahs I've had at this stage in their lives. (I realize now that this may be because the others were single-vineyard wines, whereas this is their Santa Barbara County offering.) But just as complex, perhaps more complex. Very balanced, somewhat velvety, mixing sweet fruit flavors like blueberry, maybe boysenberry, maybe raspberry with darker, more mineral and spicy notes. Some vanilla notes as well. My only worry about this wine is whether, at 14.7% alcohol and already seeming relatively open, it will age well. But the flavors are so intense and well integrated with each other that it's a pretty good bet. It does not taste at all "hot" (overalcoholic) despite the high percentage. It may mature faster than other Jaffurs Syrahs. Evolving
somewhat in the glass...getting a bit more tannic and slightly less velvety, with different aspects of the flavor coming to the fore at different times. Definitely up there with the best Syrahs I've had, of any type. Expensive (direct from the winery, it's $15 for a half bottle, $27 a bottle, before shipping), but worth it.

Wines for the 99% from South America via Trader Joe's: Panilonco 2009 Carmenère, La Finca 2010 Malbec

I have to hand it to Trader Joe's for the generally very high quality to price ratio in their wine section.  I recently reviewed several cheap or reasonably priced wines from TJ's, and here are a couple more.

The 2010 La Finca Malbec, Oak Aged, from Mendoza, Argentina, is another recommended bargain from TJ's at $3.99.  It has that typical Malbec fruitiness, reminiscent of blackberries and also of some of the old-time Italian-American wines from California, but it is not syrupy or overripe, or overconcentrated, and it has a nice bit of tannin to add backbone to the fruit.  Very quaffable with pizza and such.  On a par in quality  with the 2010 La Finca Cabernet I reviewed earlier.

The 2009 Panilonco Carmenère, D.O. Colchagua Valley, Chile, is also a typical expression of the grape, and another fantastic bargain at TJ's for $4.99.  It has the ripe, somewhat sappy, open mouthfeel of the Panilonco Cabernet-Malbec I reviewed earlier, but plummy flavors with a hint of spice (cloves or allspice?), and some dark complexity, perhaps leafiness.  It definitely resembles some Italian Carmenères I've had from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, but is a bit less tightly structured and softer, though not excessively alcoholic or syrupy.  It also bears some resemblance to a good, softer-styled Bordeaux, even though the latter are made from different grapes.

These are both just plain well-made, tasty wines, not spoiled by overreaching.  Each of them is a clear expression of typical flavors of their respective grapes.  If you've never tried these grapes, this is a good chance to find out what kind of wine they make for very little money.  The Carmenère is perhaps a bit more complex, but they're both interesting and enjoyable wines---and fabulous deals at TJ's price.   You'd be hard pressed to find a better red than either of these for under $10, and even spending more is certainly no guarantee of something you'll enjoy drinking more than these bottles.

Wine at Trader Joe's I: Cheap and good. (Wingman 2009 Shiraz, Trader Joe's Petit Reserve 2009 Tempranillo, Panilonco 2010 Merlot-Malbec, La Finca 2010 Cabernet, Trader Joe's 2009 Reserve Cabernet Mendocino)

Many of you have probably discovered that Trader Joe's is a great place to get wine.  I wasn't impressed the few times I sampled their famed "two-buck Chuck" wines  under their Charles Shaw label (now three or four bucks), and that probably slowed my adoption of TJ's as a wine source, but about a year ago I gave their other wines a try and discovered that they are a great source of quality, excellent-value-for-money wines.  You won't find the most high-end, handcrafted, and often expensive wines here, but if you're planning on spending $4 to $20 for a wine, you'll probably do better at TJ's than most places.  I believe that they can use their volume buying capability, and long-term contracting capability, to grab large lots of wine or grapes that are pretty good but not quite what some pretty good winery wants in its expensive blend; or to buy the excess production of a good winery that can't sell all its production at premium prices, or perhaps even to work directly with both winemakers who don't grow, and growers, to get what they want made for them.  They are privately held by a German family business, which I speculate (quite baselessly) may give them some special connections with or insight into medium and low priced Bordeaux of quality, since Germany seems to traditionally have good reasonably priced Bordeaux available, that you don't see in the states.  (More on TJ's Bordeaux in a later post.)

Some recent finds in the super-value department:

2009 Trader Joe's Petit Reserve Tempranillo, California.   Don't precisely recall the price, probably in the $4-6 range.  Rather velvety mouthfeel, with some nice but not overbearing mouthcoating tannins, a little bit of hotness or roughness but not too much.  Good strong berry fruit flavors, not overdone, though not an especially dry wine.  Veering a little toward candy but not too much.  And, late in the meal, some dark, toasty, minerally, really surprising complex tastes emerging that remind me of nothing so much as the excellent (and far more expensive) Syrahs and Grenaches made by Jaffurs in the Santa Barbara area.  Definitely has California forwardness compared to most Spanish Tempranillos, but a really good wine for the money.  If the dark complexity holds up or develops upon finishing the bottle over the next few days, this could be not just a very good, but a stunning, value.  I plan to buy more if it's still available (this may have been purchased several months, perhaps even six months, back).

2009 "The Wingman" California Shiraz (90%) / Viognier (10%), County Fair Wines (Sebastopol, CA).  $6.99.  On first opening, this has a classic Cotes-du-Rhone-like nose and mouth, with some autumn-leaf and slightly spicy components, dark berry fruits and very slight hints of mineral or tar.  The mouthfeel is smoother and fuller than a generic Cotes-du-Rhone, and slightly glyceriny, probably due in part to the Viognier, which may be responsible for a bit of a floral, aromatic note (the label mentions tropical fruits).  There's also more blueberry, a typical feature in some Syrahs (notably some Aussies, and Cornas).    Reasonably well balanced, perhaps a little bit elegant though not velvety, with some relatively coarse tannin that feels loosely held in a fairly "watery" (not a criticism, and doesn't imply lightness) wine.  Holds up well over a few days, too...mostly losing the leafy and floral elements, though, and some of the fresher berry elements.    My son thought the label was "awesome"...it features a male harpy with a turn-of-the-century (1900ish) moustachioed face, cutaway revealing skeletal and visceral components, armor or stocking-clad human legs, wings of course...and various diagrams and quill-pen writing in a 19th century European calligraphic style.  Quite weird and slightly pretentious...I would probably not normally buy a wine with this label, but a TJ's staffer recommended it, and rightly so.  I bought two more bottles on a return visit.  This wine is an excellent value, and a fairly unusual wine.  Closest comparison is probably certain mid-range ($20ish) Australian Shirazes, but this is a bit less alcoholic and tannic, which may be good thing for current drinking.

2010 "Panilonco" Merlot-Malbec, Colchagua Valley, Chile. $4.99.  Produced by Vinedos Errazuriz Ovalle.  This is a great deal on a hearty but very drinkable red.  It seems to me to have delicious ripe-tomato flavors in addition to a decent amount of berry fruit and somewhat chewy tannins, along with a teeny bit of darker, more complex flavor.  I like it much better than the "Trader Joe's Coastal" Cabernets and Zins I've tried at the same price which have a similar overall profile, but are less balanced and have some foxy (Concord-grape-like) flavors and sometimes a slighlty offputting amount of vegetality.  Again, I could use another bottle or two.

2010 La Finca Cabernet, Argentina. $3.99.  This was great with burgers,  both veggie and beef, at a Democratic Party barbeque.  (It would probably be just as good at a Republican party barbeque.)   I seriously doubt you will find a better red for $3.99 anywhere, although TJ's Epicuro Salice Salentino is in the same price range, and as good (but different).  Very drinkable, combines some blackberry and other dark fruit flavors with little tea and tarriness, medium body supported by a  modicum of somewhat chewy tannin, a relatively loose structure but reasonably good balance.  Most importantly, a wine you just want to drink more of, not a tiring overalcoholic or overbearing-with-fruit wine, but not wimpy either.  Kind of like a good example of a less vegetal Bordeaux Superieur, but more enjoyable to drink than most Bordeaux superieurs I've ruin across even in the $10-18 range, as the latter often have the flaw (possibly due in part to poor conditions during transport from Europe to the US) of being relatively full-bodied, strongly flavored, and decently tannic, but with something a bit bitter and austere, a slightly excessive hit of vegetality and olives on occasion, and more importantly, somewhat closed or unexpressive.  I went back to get more and the labels were still on the shelves but all the La Finca wines, save five or six bottles of Chardonnay, were gone from the shelves.  (They also make a Merlot and a Malbec, and I think also another white, like a Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon blanc.)  That tends to happen at TJ's---people identify the best bargains, and load up.

2009 Trader Joe's Reserve Cabernet, Mendocino, California. $9.99.  Vinted and bottled by DNA Wines, Ukiah, CA.  Made from organic grapes.  This wine is softer and more elegant than any of the above.  On the other hand, at $10 it doesn't really qualify as "cheap".  I have had good luck with all the TJ's Reserve wines I've tried (besides this, two vintages of Dry Creek Reserve Cabernet (2008 and 2009) and a Dry Creek Reserve Zinfandel).   This one indeed has plummy flavors as claimed on the label... I think of the dark purple-black-skinned plums with reddish-orange to pale-orange flesh.  Add to that some clovish elements, dark berry fruit, hints of complexity, fine tannins in moderation, and you have a really nice wine, quite different from the Dry Creek cabernets, and I fancy showing some typically Mendocino characteristics and flavors.  Ready to drink now, or age a few years; perhaps slightly low in acid and loose in structure for long aging, but it might be worth a try.  Excellent value, distinctive, flavorful, and easy to drink Cabernet.  Again, I plan to get two or three more bottles.

Silvio Jermann 2006 Vintage Tunina

My brother-in-law and his wife gave us a bottle of Silvio Jermann's 2006 Vintage Tunina, from  the region of Friuli/Venezia-Giulia.  IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Venezia Giulia.  Fantastic, and though a much more expansive and complex wine, reminded me of savoring an afternoon glass of wine with them in a wine bar or two in Venice last summer.   Very Friulian in its clear, almost lemon-yellow color and its clarity of fruit.  Fairly intensely flavored, but balanced, very smooth in a slightly glyceriny or unctuous (that's good in this case!) way.  I didn't notice any oak, just pure, deep, complex grape flavors.  Maybe hints of coconut, lemon, a tiny hint of bitter green stemminess, maybe some hay, but this kind of analysis is beside the point.  Really delicious wine, which had some of the intense but soft characteristics of a fresh, not-so-botrytized great Sauternes, like maybe Lafaurie-Peyraguey, but without the sweetness or caramel.  Bottom line: you won't go wrong with this one.  Just plain delicious.

Worked with an excellent pasta/beans/chard/parmesan dish my wife put together, but would likely go with just about any not-too-gamey poultry dish, fish---even, or perhaps especially because of its relative softness and lack of herbaceousness, salmon---or perhaps even prosciutto or some other charcuterie-type first course.  Probably would be nice with a cream-and-wild-mushroom sauced pasta.

Perrin Cotes du Rhone "Nature" and "Tradition"; Vacqueyras

Perrin & fils are establishing a brand, in the best way, and following a grand French tradition.  Proprietors of the great (well, it's expensive enough that I haven't tried it) Chateauneuf-du-Pape property, Château de Beaucastel, they also make several excellent Côtes-du-Rhône that are a clear cut above most plain Côtes.  I found their Tradition to be excellent, with a bit more tannin and substance than standard Cotes, but still with easy-to-drink berry flavors and a bit of autumn-leafy complexity.  Their organic "Nature" 2007 ($17/750ml, $10/375ml, Canadian at LCBO) was even better---or at any rate different.  Mostly Grenache, with some Syrah, like most Côtes.  My notes say "Great nose--hints of chocolatiness, sweetness--something like chocolate milk or cocoa powder in the nose and on the palate.  Some complexity---hard to describe---a bit chalky or mineral.  Really a remarkable wine.  Herbs?  Tastes alive.  Pretty long finish.  Closest thing might be "The Stump Jump" (an Aussie Grenache-Shiraz).  Definite chalkiness now.  Really great!"

Nice label, too: all of Perrin's labels feature various shades of off-white to cream paper, with classic French typographic design reminsicent of the 19th century.  The "Nature" features laid paper with visible chain-lines, groovy retro typography of the sort modeled on elegant fountain-pen script, with some of the lettering in green, and green butterflies on the cream background.  On the other wines, some lettering is black, some red.  Their wine is classic French tradition-based quality product; they know it and the labels send the message too:  the design isn't uniform, but it's clearly a family of designs, discreetly but unmistakeably radiating the glory that is France at its best.

Cuvee Catharine Brut Rose---Henry of Pelham; Bodegas Weinert, Luigi Bosca and Argento Reserva Malbecs

At wine and cheese two weeks ago at PI, I bought a glass of the Henry of Pelham, VQA Niagara, Ontario, Cuvee Catharine Brut Rosé (non vintage).  At first, I was disappointed that it seemed a bit closed, though fruity and acidic.  Then it opened up, getting toastier (or was that just me) with scents of strawberry and other yummy stuff, but keeping that crisp acidity and clarity.  This apparently costs $30 CDN at the winery, so it's getting up into the range with Champagne, but it's made by the traditional Champenoise method, from the traditional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, and I think it competes well with French bubbles, which moreover are going to set you back at least $38 at this quality level.  Bottom line, I'd buy more even at this price; I don't give numerical ratings, but take that as a rave review.

My free glass was the Bodegas Weinert Malbec from Argentina---the most Bordeaux-like of the Argentine Malbecs I've recently tried.  Darker, more restrained and tannic than these, it was nevertheless a bit elegant, and a nice wine that I order on occasion with dinner.  At $20 or so at LCBO, I'm perhaps not as wild about it as a few other Argentine Malbecs I've found there:  the Luigi Bosca single vineyard Lujan de Cuyo 2006 Malbec Reserva is fantastic, melding silkiness and Bordeaux-like caramelly oak notes with beautiful, not-too-jammy fruit ($18CDN);  the Argento reserve Malbec 2005 ($12) similar but perhaps a bit less complex, and with definite emphasis on blueberry fruitiness slightly reminscent of some Aussie Shirazes.  Again, the relevant "rating" is that I bought more of both of these after tasting them.  Fittingly for wines from Argentina, they are both great with steak.

Smash the ripe Syrah grape! Spread Red power worldwide! (2007 Chapel Hill Syrah, 2007 Alkoomi Syrah, 2007 Hope Syrah "The Ripper", 2005 Cornas "Empreintes" Durand, 2005 Cornas Domaine du Tunnel, 1983 Chapoutier Hermitage, 1983 Jaboulet "Les Jumelles" Cote Rotie, etc...)

Well, after a minor jag a few years back on South Australian (Barossa, McClaren Vale) Shiraz, and a rather successful foray into Santa Barbara Syrah, including some futures purchases from the Wine Cask, I've done another round of Syrah exploration over the past few months, as LCBO seems to be well-supplied with the stuff and the Australian ones, at least, regularly tack up 90+ point reviews.  The results have been pretty good, overall.

I'll start with two wines from Cornas; these are the first Cornas I've ever tried, as this appellation in the Northern Rhône Valley of France is rather small (90 hectares, or 222 acres) and perhaps a bit obscure compared to its better-known and even more expensive Northern Rhône siblings Hermitage and Côte Rotie.  It shares with these siblings steep hillside vineyards overlooking the Rhone river, on the right (west) bank, granite soils (along with some clay and limestone), and predominant use (in the case of Cornas, exclusive use) of the Syrah (Aussie: Shiraz) grape.  It's reputedly a bit more rustic than the other two, hence, probably, its lower price.  But it's a fullbodied wine, considered ageworthy and potentially great.  The 2005 Cornas "Empreintes", Joel & Eric Durand, vignerons, GAEC du Lautaret, 07130 Chateaubourg, bought because it was on sale at LCBO, was the first Cornas I've ever tasted, and it lived up to the reputation of the appelation.  I couldn't find anyone who'd tasted it at LCBO, but one guy scanned the barcode and some tasting note or other came up on their computer, maybe with a high score, I don't recall.  Anyway, I've wondered for decades what this stuff was like, so I bit.  My notes say: "Great nose of blueberry with hints of something complex and indefinable; smooth mouthfeel with fine tannins; blueberry and maybe a bit of what some call bacon fat.  Rather sappy.  [Like most tasting notes?]  Hints of cola?  Medium full-bodied.  Suave, a bit velvety.  Good length.  Some dark tannins devloping in the finish, with air.  Even a hint of red hots in the nose.  This wine seems to be exploring an aspect of Syrah one finds often in Australia---but with a certain velvety balance that's French.  13.5% alcohol.  Has a certain creaminess to it.  I think we can say white pepper on the finish."  This was on sale because there weren't many bottles left and LCBO likes to blow out the old and bring on the new like clockwork, making it hard to go back and find things after you taste them and realize you want more.   In this case I tried, and it was gone.  This was one of the better wines I've ever had, and while the tannins seemed rather loosely held in a relatively juicy wine, so that perhaps one might expect a relatively rapid dropping of tannin and aging process, it did seem worth cellaring for the next 5-10  years.  Expensive even on sale (in the range of $30+ CDN), but worth it.

Keen to try more Cornas, I had the 2005 Domaine du Tunnel.  Cornas is reputed to be rather inky and tannic when young, and this one more than the Empreintes (which was, however, no lightweight) lived up to that rep.  My notes say "Purple-black, dark tastes, medium fine, coagulating tannins feel "suspended".  Inky---sappy juicy fruit but with lots of dark burnt toast kind of elements---green olive---should throw its tannin, maybe soon, and develop more. "  This too was quite a good wine, really a dense, powerful one, but still quite young;  if I were "investing" in this to cellar and drink, I would wait a few years before trying it again---maybe two years if I had 6 bottles, one if I had a case.  It is one of those wines you can tell is extremely promising, but because it's quite tannic and somewhat closed up even though dense and potentially powerful, it isn't really a hedonistic drinking experience right now.  I drank this at a neat little restauarant, Reba and Pancho's, in Lewisburg, PA, with a perfectly cooked medium rare ribeye steak on a bed of roasted potatoes, wilted greens, and a light red chile sauce, benefiting from Pennsylvania's apparent draconian grip on (or high prices for) liquor licenses which forces many restaurants, like R & P's,  to be BYO.  Plus I met some nice Lewisburg wine folk who were holding a kind of informal wine-club dinner get-together at another table.  The restaurant combines a bit of foodie-ness with small-college-town hominess, and friendly staff all 'round; look it up if you're going through Lewisburg.  (Entrees in the 20s, starters in the mid to high single digits, desserts 6.)  I went there on Alex Wilce's recommendation. I left Alex the remaining Cornas, and he said that while initially put off by the high tannin or acid, it grew on him, drunk with a meal of sausage and rice.

I am extremely curious to see what happens to a good Cornas with a decade or more of aging.  At Christmas this year we had another bottle from a case of 1983 Chapoutier Hermitage my dad was wise enough to buy pre-release---it was really nice.  I can't find my notes on it, but I've had it several times over the years, and while one one relatively early occasion (well past 1983, though!) it seemed relatively closed and tannic and perhaps losing its fruit, the other bottles were all delicious, and very different from the above-described Cornas---primarily due to age.  While retaining some tannin, some has also dropped, and what remains just gives a pleasantly prickly spine to a wine that is very harmonious and elegant, mixing some black-currant and blackberryish fruitiness with hints of caramel and floral elements.  But the main thing about this and the better examples of other great old French wines I've had (and some great old California ones, on occasion) is hard to summarize by citing other tastes:  while having some complexity and diversity, it's harmoniously unified, and tastes like itself above all.  Plus the balance and elegance, that are difficult to describe, but really nice.  A lot of intensity, but not a lot of over-the-top tannic fruitiness.  Mmm.

Since I'm doing the Northern Rhone here,  how about completeing the Big Three with a Cote Rotie:  the 1983 Jaboulet "Les Jumelles".  My notes from 2007 say:  "Superb--balanced and silky, rose petal and raspberry and some tasty vanilla caramel notes.  sediment pretty much dropped, getting a slight orange edge and incipient signs of age but near its peak and fantastic!".

Okay, so France can do it; but if the Red power of Syrah is to rule the world, how is it doing Down Under?  Well, as Shiraz, it's been ensconced there for quite a long time.  I have no authoritative knowledge here; some web sources claim that the first commercial planting of Shiraz in Australia was by George Wyndham in 1830, while others seem to think James Busby may have brought the vines along with cuttings from other serious European varieties, in 1832 or 1833.  If I can find my copy of Hugh Johnson's history of wine, I'll see what he has to say.  Anyhow, there is a lot of Shiraz made in Oz, at all price points from the plonkiest "critter wine" to the apparently fabulous (at around $200 a bottle, I wouldn't know) Grange Hermitage from Penfolds.

The relatively hot climate South Australian appellations of Barossa and McClaren Vale are perhaps the best known for Shiraz. I've had good luck with them, overall, especially the rich but well-balanced 2005 vintage.  I figured I'd compare one to some West Australian examples of the grape.  I think West Australia's wine regions are generally considered to be cooler in climate than McClaren and the Barossa.  I recently tried the Chapel Hill 2007 (McClaren Vale), the Alkoomi 2007 (from the Frankland River appelation, in West Australia), and the Hope 2007 "The Ripper" West Australia (which, it says on the back label, is from the town of Donnybrook, in the Geographe appelation).  All of these had little cardboard squares in LCBO alleging that some dude or other had rated them 90ish.  I'm not that keen on numerical ratings, certainly not for comparing wines of very different regions or types, but I guess I'm still a bit influenced.  I'd say the Hope and the Chapel Hill might be considered to deserve such a rating (maybe more 89ish...one needs to leave room at the top for wines one can only imagine).

Raw notes on the Alkoomi, from yesterday:  "Good nose of classic Aussie Shiraz elements--red fruits (like cherry, raspberry) and a darkish thing.  Nice, medium full bodied, fine soft tannin.  Very cherry in the mouth, good long finish of cherry and some darker notes that sticks cleanly to the mouth (not a chewy tannin-coating).  Excellent.  Some breed/balance reminiscent of the 1999 Branaire-Ducru.  Some pretty decent hints of minerality developing, and hints of mint.  13.5% alcohol---surprising, doesn't seem that hot."  (Hot being winetasting jargon for the obtrusive taste/feel of high alchol.)  Tasted again today after overnight refrigeration (brought back to room temperature in the microwave---yeah, you read that right), I thought it didn't hold up that well, seeming much simpler than the previous day, but still a good  wine.  Some slightly vegetal, maybe hinting at jalapeno-pepper, elements seemed evident, also intense red fruits like maybe pomegranate.

Chapel Hill 2007 McClaren Vale Shiraz:  "On the nose, vanilla and oak; elegant, classic, and rich.  Similarly colored to the Alkoomi, which was a deep bright red, but slightly purpler and more opaque.  Wow!  Elegant and rich in the mouth!  Balanced.  Maybe it's oak but it's yummy---graham crackers, deep elegant fruit--fine, slightly more grainy tannins, perfectly poised between chewy and velvety.  Tarry elements.  long finish.  More mouthcoating than the Alkoomi.  14.5% alcohol.  A classic Aussie Barossa/McClaren Vale Shiraz thing going here."  That was two days ago.  Yesterday, it seemed more tannic, darker, less fruity, more closed.  Probably it had sat on its side in the fridge and some tannic sediment got all stirred up.  Still good but not as fun.  Today, after storage in the fridge door, it had more clarity again.  The fruit flavors in this are definitely darker fruits--blackberry.  Also some minerality, some dusty kind of elements.  The bouquet (that's the smell) really has some complexity---caramelly, sweet elements (probably from oak) along with dirt, dust, 'n fruit.  Is it a "blackberry oak-shake?", as some criticize the big, ripe, Parker-friendly hot-climate Australian Shirazez?  (Whoops, misspelled that.  All your Shirazez iz belong 2 us.  Somebody set up us da fruit bomb.)   Naah---it's a blackberry oak-shake with dirt and rocks.  But quite tasty.  At $22.75 CDN this is a good value for a nice example of the big hot-climate Aussie Shiraz style, with intense enough fruit to handle some tasty new oak, and pretty well-balanced and elegant for a wine with 14.5 degrees of alcohol.

Now, opened today, the Hope 2007 West Australian Shiraz "The Ripper" purports to be a cooler-climate, more elegant style of Shiraz.  It's not as high-acid as the Alkoomi, but at first seemed otherwise quite similar, if a tad more intense, and a bit better balanced and more velvety.  It has somewhat darker fruit flavors, like hints of blackcurrant or maybe blackberry --- but maybe one should just skip the fruit list; you get the general idea.  Maybe not quite as complex as the Chapel Hill, but very tasty.  Tasted again after dinner, it seems to have even improved---very elegant and velvety, flavors getting a bit deeper, more elements of chocolate.  I tend to scoff when a label gets as subtle as "white chocolate" but I thought it made sense this time.

Well, we've only covered two continents and if anything is going to rule the globe, it had better have a handle on California.  And Syrah indeed does but I'll have to leave that for next time.

Links for the day: winevaulttv.com, Jancis Robinson on Clos Jordanne, Matt Dees of Jonata, Daniel Gundlach's Counterleben; Cherries and Clay

Some interesting links:

Jayson Bryant's Wine Vault TV, which looks to have almost daily short video tastings of New Zealand and other wines---good stuff.

Jancis Robinson on Le Clos Jordanne and Closson Chase, her favorite Ontario wineries, both of a Burgundian (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) orientation.  She likes Closson Chase for their Chardonnay and Clos Jordanne for both, especially their Pinots.  I tasted some CJ's last week at Jackson Trigg's splashy (but tasteful) Niagara-on-the-Lake facility; will post about them soon.

Cherries and Clay, a wine blog whose name summons taste memories of good Niagara Peninsula wines, though I think these guys are from BC.

Via Cherries and Clay, an interview with young winemaker Matt Dees of Jonata Wines in the Santa Ynez valley (near Santa Barbara, CA).

Countertenor Daniel Gundlach has an interesting, but apparently dormant for the last year, blog Counterleben, especially good on great and sometimes obscure sopranos.  It's where I learned about Snowball (TM) the Dancing Cockatoo.  (If that's not enough, another one bites the dust.)

Chateau Suau Sauternes, 2005

Here's a find from LCBO:  Chateau Suau Sauternes, 2eme cru, produced by the SARL des Vignobles Famille DuBourdieu at Illats.  This is now $13.95 Canadian at LCBO for 375ml (on "bin-end" sale, down from $17.70, as it's not from the most recent delivery).  It has a nice balance, veering to the sweeter, more syrupy side of the Sauternes spectrum but still elegant, slightly racy but, with what seems lowish acidity, not hugely so.  Excellent balance between subtle fruit flavors (hints of pineapple and orange) and a definite caramelized-sugar aspect, hinting at tobacco.  The fruits predominate in the nose and early on, and the caramelized aspects are more prominent on the finish, and also, it seemed to me on Thanksgiving, as the wine gets more air.  The predominant flavor might be characterized as Seville orange marmalade, with a characteristic hint of bitterness.  The low acidity might suggest that the wine is not as ageworthy as some more acidic Sauternes, but that's far from predictable, and the good flavor intensity, caramelized and tobacco elements, and high sugar could yield fantastic results on aging.  They remind me a bit of a botrytised late-harvest 1985 Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Semillon-Sauternes---a fairly reasonably priced Aussie wine that I bought as a grad student in the late 80's and that, drunk in November 2005, was a truly great wine.  The Suau has a very similar set of tastes even now---it is absolutely and deliciously drinkable now, but also worth saving for a few years or a decade or two to it to see if they will meld and intensify with age.  Good Sauternes is expensive to produce, and even at the initial price of $17.70 this is a good deal, at least by North American standards, for a wine of this quality, but at $13.95 it's a steal.  This (along with some other wines I'll post about soon) goes a long way toward making me take back my grumblings about LCBO.

New Wine Review Feature Implemented:  If this wine were an opera singer it would be:

Marina Poplavskaya as Elizabeth of Valois in Verdi's Don Carlo, stated by the poster to be from the Royal Opera House at Covent Garden, 23 Sept. 2009.  Well, maybe not quite.  But her voice is elegant, sweet with a hint of bitterness, pure but with hints of complexity...